What makes a good subject to photograph at night?

The night is a fascinating subject to photograph. It requires a challenging mixture of creative and technical skills. It's an art which can take a lifetime to master. But every step along the way is fun and enjoyable.
One of the questions I often get asked about night photography is: What makes a good subject to photograph at night?
Choosing a subject can be tricky for night shots. Often what looks good to the eye doesn't translate so well to the camera or vice versa. Only through trial and error will you begin to develop the knack of finding the perfect shot without using two or three rolls of film to find it. It is also important to remember that night photography in general is very technically challenging. Photography is literally painting with light, so when there is hardly any light to hand, things can get a bit tricky.
Generally good night shots are things like:
Streets either empty or full of traffic. There is loads of light around and many creative ways to capture what's happening around you.
Fireworks are a perennial favourite. More detail on how to be successful at this can be found later in this course.
Concerts and general nightlife scenes are also good because of the lights and the unpredictable antics of people. This is particularly rewarding in Europe where the city centre and entertainment districts are much more compact than those in American cities.
City skylines work well, particularly if there is a river or lake in front on which you can capture the reflections of the city lights.
Monuments and statues are often lit at night. The Washington Monument in Washington DC immediately comes to mind as a striking example of what can be done in this genre.
Industrial areas and factories, both working and abandoned provide hours of subject matter for the night photographer. It is difficult to resist the combination of strong shapes, floodlights and smoke.

Custom Made Photo Album: Create Your Unique Photo Album

It’s a known fact the Photo Albums has been the gift of the century: from traditional to custom made photo albums. That’s because it is the safest gift option available. You just cannot go wrong when you give photo album as a gift. People often has abundance of photos, therefore there is always a need for photo albums.

Though an excellent and practical gift option, the enthusiasm for photo album gifts diminished. But this can be easily countered with a unique custom photo album gift.

You probably are afraid to tackle the challenge of designing a unique custom photo album gift. Many believe that they are not creative enough or just don’t know where to start. Therefore, I established four basic steps in designing a unique custom made photo album as gift.

Step 1: Establish a Theme. A theme for your photo album will help you immensely in creating a unique custom photo album design. The most popular theme for custom made photo album is Wedding, Sweet Sixteen, Debut, or Quinceniera.

When you combine custom made photo album concept with milestone events, the photo album gift is not only unique but very practical. The recipient of the custom photo album could group all of her or his photo into one photo album that matched the occasion.

Step 2: Establish Gift Recipient Profile. If you are designing this photo album for yourself, you can skip this step. This step is very important if you are designing custom made photo album as a gift. One of the major problems when designing a photo album gift is that people forget that they are designing it for someone else.

This is just a precaution to ensure that your photo album design reflects the sense of style of the gift recipient, making the photo album gift unique to his/her personality. Profile information could be as simple as their age, favorite color, or style.

Step 3: Select Your Color. Color combinations play a key role in designing a unique custom made photo album design. If the photo album gift is relevant to a party (e.g. Sweet Sixteen, Wedding, etc.), then you can use the motive color of the party. Otherwise, select the recipient’s favorite color.

Color combinations could make your photo album unique. After all, how many photo albums have you seen that has different color combinations? If you wish to use color combination for a unique photo album design, color wheel makes a great reference. Here are the basic color combinations you can use for your custom photo album design.

o Mono-chromatic color scheme use a combination of colors with different tones, tints, and shades from one color (e.g. blue, dark blue, light blue). This color scheme creates harmony and is perfect for conservative custom made photo album design.

o Complimentary color scheme is a combination of colors opposite of each other in the color wheel (e.g. purple and yellow). These two colors has strong clash, creating a funky combination. Perfect for absolutely unique photo album design.

o Analogous color scheme is a combination of adjacent colors in the color wheel (e.g. yellow and yellow-green; blue and blue-green). Analogous color scheme creates a warm look which is great for conservative custom made photo album design.

o Triadic color scheme uses three colors that are of the same distance from each other such as red-yellow-blue. I suggest you use this for a funkier custom photo album design.

Step 4: Brainstorm A Unique Photo Album Design. Now that you have a theme, profile, and color scheme, you are ready to create a unique design for your custom made photo album. Basing your photo album design on the profile from Step 2 would make your custom made photo album gift absolutely priceless and unique to the recipient. This step is important since it forces you to narrow down your design ideas into one unique custom made photo album gift.
These four basic steps will help you tremendously in creating a unique custom photo album gift that the recipient will fall in love with. It requires a little bit more research and thought, but you would be please with the recipient’s reaction.

Photography Lighting Techniques

Lighting "maketh a photograph" - a very true and true to life statement, just as "clothes maketh a man"! Consequently if you are a photographer the importance of correct photography lighting techniques need not be overemphasized.

Light effects create prize winning photographs that the great connoisseurs of art crave for. The most relevant topic in photography is type of lighting and how to use it for the best possible result in your photographs. To make the subject easier we shall discuss four basic types of lighting and their conventional usage and constraints.

1. Back Lighting - One of the most popular forms of artistic photography is done through back lighting the objects. It can also be a constraint in case of normal photography when one wishes to capture lighting effects along with the subjects of the photographs like humans or other objects. Perfect photography lighting techniques are to be used in case you wish to capture the breathtaking effect of sunrise and sunset say on a beach with human subjects taking in that natural view! Of course, if one wants to take a silhouette and create a lasting effect it is necessary to compose the picture without any form of filters or flash photography. In contrast if one desires the entire composition to be evenly lit it is advisable to use fill flash equipment.

2. Side Lighting - One of the most common and popular artistic photography methods of illuminating the subject, object, and the background to give really stunning effects! Many systems are possible and these photography lighting techniques can offer a true art form when properly implemented. Half lit and half dark (kind of eclipse effect!) photographs give uncanny but thrilling effects to your hobby. Allowing light to fall from the side and casting a shadow on the opposite side can enhance features if a close up is contemplated. Special portraits are taken with side lighting to emphasize the right or left features of a human form and give depth to an object like flower vases, round objects etc. Photography lighting techniques using the side illumination effect are used for depicting texture and somehow also gives a three dimensional effect.

3. Artificial Lighting - Most indoor photography is carried out with artificial lighting and in this art form - the sky is the limit! Your passport or marriage proposal photograph is normally taken in artificial light. However, for artistic photography, artificial light needs to be well arranged to avoid undesirable effects such as red eye, yellow tinge, and a harsh environment.

4. Diffused Lights - Most important and most natural photography lighting techniques are with the use of diffused light systems. For many photo compositions it is necessary to avoid direct light from falling on the subjects or objects. In case of outdoor photography one must choose the right time of day to take a snap. Sunrise, sunset and mid day sunlight can be too harsh for a proper picture to be snapped. The use of suitable filters is advised to avoid hot spots and create a mush smoother lighting effect.

Though there are many other photography lighting techniques available in the market, the above four basic systems give a fair idea on the effect of illumination in the photographic profession.

Taking good digital photos of people faces

Taking a really good digital photo of someone face can be very impressive. Accomplishing such high quality with face photos is hard. There are many things to consider such as shooting angle, lighting conditions, flash usage and background handling. Here are some tips and ideas to help you achieve better face photos.
Following is a list of things to consider when taking such face digital photos. As always it is better to experiment and try out the concepts described here in order to get a better grasp of why they are important and how they can be used to your benefit.
The right background: A face photo is as the name says all about the person face. You would like the digital photo viewer to focus on the face. By choosing the wrong background you might draw the viewer attention to other objects rather than the person face. The right background on the other hand can focus the view attention on the person face and at the same time also emphasize some of the face characteristics. It is best to pick a neutral background that does not attract attention. A soft solid color background for example is much better than a busy street background. It is also good practice to avoid having people or other moving or interesting objects in the background.
Blurring the background: you can use another technique in order to make sure that the person face stands out in the photo. This technique involves blurring the background. By blurring the background you send a message to the viewer that the background is not important and you emphasize the face as the only in-focus object in the photo. Blurring the background can be achieved by taking a photo using a shallow depth of field. Shallow depth of field is accomplished by using a zoom lens and shooting from a short distance or by setting a wide aperture. If your camera does not allow you to blur the photo by setting a shallow depth of field (it is hard to achieve such a depth of field with low-end pocket cameras) you can always blur the background later on using photo processing software on your computer.
The eyes are the center: focusing on the person face is best achieved by actually focusing on the person eyes. The eye are the most important part of the person face in the photo and usually express the most emotions and human touch. Try to play around with the person looking straight to the camera or sideways focusing on some other object. A smile is also recommended unless you are specifically looking for a face that does not smile in order to send some message to the viewer.
Lighting: capturing the face skin color is mostly a matter of using the right lighting. The best lighting is natural lighting. Taking face photos outdoors during the day is good practice in order to capture the skin color and warmth. When using outdoors natural light position the person in a way that the sun light hits it from the side. Do not take face photo with the sun behind the person or right in front as these will result in shadings or overexposure respectively. With lighting coming from the side some shades might appear on the person face, to compensate for these simply use a soft fill-in flash. If you must shoot indoors and use artificial lighting try to use indirect light sources such as bounce flash or lights that illuminate the room instead of directly shining on the person.

8 Tips For Protecting A Digital Camera's Memory Card

The way that memory cards for your digital camera are handled, used, and stored can greatly influence the length of their useful life and dependability. Observing a few precautions can be the difference between the disappointment of lost images and the pleasure of having pictures with which to reminisce.

Avoid physically damaging memory cards:

• avoid exposure to direct sunlight and temperature extremes

• protect memory cards from exposure to moisture and store in a low humidity environment

• do not write or put stickers on the cards

• store cards in a protective case or leave them in the camera to avoid accidentally breaking them or getting dirt or dust on them

Protect memory cards through proper use:

• keep the batteries of the digital camera fully charged to assure they don't fail while shooting pictures as a failure may result in lost images and permanent damage to the card

• be sure data has been saved, the process completed, before removing the card from the camera or card reader; it's best to turn the digital camera off before removing the card

• move images to the computer to edit rather than editing photos on the card itself

• delete images and re-format the card in the digital camera after downloading on a regular basis

Although the failure of a digital camera's memory card is a rare occurrence, the results can feel tragic nonetheless. Observing manufacturer's guidelines and some of the precautions reviewed above can help to circumvent the unnecessary loss of photographs.

So many digital cameras: finding the one that's right for you

How much do I have to pay?
First on most people's minds is cost. Digital sounds expensive, but it's not anymore. There are cameras with terrific features available for as little as $100-perfect starter cameras, or great for kids.

Of course, you can spend more than that-as much as several thousand for the most advanced digital single lens reflex (DSLR) cameras. However, unless you are a professional who needs interchangeable lenses and manual everything, you can get a great camera for between $150 and $400. It all depends on what you want to do with your camera and your photos.

What is a megapixel and how many do I need?
Digital photos are made up of pixels, which is computer-speak for "picture element." Get a thousand of these little squares together and you have a megapixel-MP for short. Every digital camera you consider will have a number of megapixels associated with it, but higher isn't necessarily better.

Megapixels affect the resolution of your digital photos-that is, the potential clarity of the photos. If you choose a camera with a high number, for instance, 10 MP, you'll get rich, detailed photos, perfect for making large prints. Or you could crop your picture and enlarge a section into its own photo without losing clarity.

That sounds good, right? The downside is that the larger the photo resolution, the more space it will take on a memory card, so you won't be able to take as many photos unless you carry extra storage.

TIP: If you don't need to make large prints, but do want to print standard sizes like 4" x 6" or 5" x 7", or e-mail or post your photos online, a camera with 5-6 megapixels will work well for you.

How much control will I have over camera settings?
The short answer is, as much or as little as you want-often on the same camera. Many digital cameras let you choose the level of control, from fully automatic, where the camera makes all decisions, to the completely manual, where you run the show.

In between those options are helpful pre-set shooting modes. These make it easy to take clear, well exposed pictures under a variety of settings-in bright sun, at night, during a sporting event, at the theater. Another fun feature is the ability to change pictures to black and white or sepia, adding versatility. Beyond that, some cameras help you prevent red-eye and other common problems.

TIP: Compare shooting modes and design features when you shop. Look for common ones, like Landscape, Portrait, and Action. Then see if there are others-Night or Snow mode, for example.

If you want more control of your digital camera's variables, you can have that too. In addition to the pre-sets, many cameras, especially in the middle and upper end of the price range, let you go manual, and set aperture, shutter speed and ISO yourself-or set one manually and have the camera choose the best settings for the other elements.

It's fun to play with these different options and see how your pictures change. And one great thing about digital photos is that, if your experiment isn't successful, you can delete the photo and take another.

What is the difference between optical and digital zoom?
Optical zoom is how far your camera's lens can physically extend from the camera body (its focal length). It lets you get closer to your subject without actually moving, and without your photo becoming blocky or pixelated.

Digital zoom stretches your camera's pixels to make a photo look bigger-similar to cropping a photo and enlarging it, but it happens right in the camera.

Digital cameras will often show you a combined optical and digital zoom. They get this by multiplying the two numbers together. For example, a camera with 3x optical zoom and 8x digital zoom will have a total zoom of 24x.

TIP: Pay most attention to the optical zoom, as it will result in clearer close up photos.

What about the camera size-is heavier better?
Digital cameras are built to endure plenty, so choose the style that suits your needs. A slim, small model is handy because it fits easily into a purse or pocket, making it a no-brainer to take along on family excursions or trips.

Slightly larger models offer some helpful features, too, like a bigger LCD screen for taking and viewing photos, and often more manual control.

Go a little bigger still, and your digital camera may also have a more powerful zoom lens, helpful for getting shots at the soccer match, or architectural details of the castle you saw on your trip to Italy.

What other equipment will I need?
Batteries: Some digital cameras use AA batteries that you replace more or less frequently depending on how many photos you take and the resolution of each picture. However, digital camera features like the LCD screen and auto-focus draw lots of power, meaning batteries get depleted quickly. Rechargeable batteries are an alternative option.

Rechargeable batteries use one of two different technologies: Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) or Lithium ion (Li-ion). NiMH batteries come in standard sizes and can be recharged multiple times before they need replacing. Many newer cameras are equipped with Li-ion battery packs. These have the advantage that they both hold more energy and be used and recharged more often than other batteries. Check your camera's manual to determine which type is compatible.

Memory cards: Your digital camera stores images on memory cards, and there are many options for these. It's a good idea to have several available-especially on vacation or at a special event like a wedding where you'll be taking lots of photos. Get a larger card-think 1 GB or more-to make sure you'll have lots of memory.

Dock: If your camera has rechargeable batteries, consider buying a docking station. It gives you a safe, secure way to charge your camera, and an easy way to connect it to your computer when you want to upload photos.

Carrying case: In addition to protecting your camera, a carrying case also lets you keep extra batteries and memory cards in one convenient place.

Now you're ready to make the buy, and start using your digital camera to help capture and share cherished memories.

Retouching And Improving Your Photographs

Retouching and Improving your Photographs – Photoshop makes it Possible.

Digital imaging and more specifically Adobe Photoshop as well as other image editing software have revolutionized photography. The advances in digital image manipulation now allow for unlimited possibilities in the area of improving photographs through retouching and restoration.

What types of improvements are possible by retouching photographs with Photoshop?

Blemishes

Embarrassing skin blemishes like acne or scars can easily be removed using the retouching tools available in Adobe Photoshop. You can learn these Photoshop techniques in minutes.

Damage to Prints

The benefits of digital imaging for restoring old damaged or worn out photographs are one of the best reasons to learn Photoshop. Once an old photograph is scanned it can be retouched to remove tears in the paper or water marks. You can also restore colors that have faded over time. Once you have retouched your image and it is like new again it will last forward because digital images do not deteriorate over time like prints.

Closed Eyes

This is one of the most common problems with group photographs. You finally got the entire family together for a family photograph including Aunt Martha only to find that she closed her eyes. Closed eyes are not a problem for a skilled user of Photoshop. You can easily open her eyes and no one will ever know.

Removing unwanted Subjects

Not only can you remove blemishes in Adobe Photoshop but another common use of Photoshop’s retouching capabilities involves removing unwanted people or objects. Old boyfriends can be forever removed from photographs quickly and easily if you know what you are doing.

Retouching photographs has never been easier than it is today. Photoshop and other photographic editing software applications have made it a breeze to open closes eyes, remove blemishes and scars, change colors, restore old damaged photographs and remove unwanted objects.

Optical or Digital Zoom? The Choice is Clear

What is zoom?
Sometimes when you take a photo you need to focus on one area in the picture frame. For example when you take a portrait photo you want to make sure the object’s face fills the photo frame while when you take a group photo you want to make sure everybody is in the photo frame.
In to focus on that one area in the photo frame you can either physically move closer to the objects or use the camera’s zoom feature. When using the zoom feature the camera (mechanically when applying an optical zoon or electronically when applying a digital zoom) enlarges that area to fit the full picture frame.
There are two types of zoom – optical and digital (in older film cameras the only zoom option was optical). We will try to explain the differences between the two.
How does optical zoon work?
Optical zoom works by physically moving the camera’s lenses and changing the focal length. By changing the focal length you can make objects appear bigger and fit the full photo frame.
When satisfied with the zoom position you can shoot the photo by simply applying the shutter button.
How does digital zoom work?
With digital zoom you actually use built-in software in the camera to define a portion of the photo which you are interested in. Once chosen the software crops the rest of the photo and enlarges the area you chose to fit the complete photo frame.
The process of enlarging the zoomed area is also known as extrapolation. The camera software needs to calculate new values for the pixels that were cropped in order to result in a full frame photo. The downside of this digital process is that the enlarged photo quality is lower than the original photo taken.
It is easy to understand the quality loss using an example. Lets assume that you have a 2MP (2 megapixels) camera. You point the camera and decide that you want to zoom in 2X. You run the digital zoom software and choose a 2X zoom. To accomplish this zoom the camera crops half of the photo and enlarges the other half to create a 2X zoom effect. In the process a 1MP area is discarded (the half that is cropped). The other 1MP area is enlarged in a process that copies every pixel once to generate a 2MP photo. Although the new photo seems to include 2MP it really includes only 1MP of information that was copied once. The result is a photo with a quality equivalent to a 1MP photo.
If you have used a 4X digital zoom in this example the result would have been a photo with an equivalent quality of a 0.5MP camera (the zoom area is 1/4 of the frame – 3/4 of the frame would be discarded and the rest 1/4 would be copied three times to fill the frame).
Digital zoom significantly reduces the quality of the photo. If your camera does not include digital zoom you can always shoot the photo without zooming and then use a PC photo editing software to crop a portion of it and enlarge the rest. In fact using PC software is always the preferred method to built-in digital zoom since it allows you to try different zoom sizes, different zoom areas and different zoom algorithms while not losing the original photo.
So which one is better?
Optical zoom is superior to digital zoom. In fact from a practical point of view digital zoom should not be considered zoom at all. It is always better to apply digital zoom on a PC at a later time rather then when taking the photo using the camera’s built-in digital zoom. When using a PC different sizes can be used and different zoom algorithms that can result in better qualities.
Know your camera's zoom
Some manufacturers claim the maximum zoom figure their cameras support without specifying if it is optical or digital zoom. This information is confusing as many consumers do not understand the difference between the two. For example if a camera supports a 5X optical zoom and 10X digital zoom advertising the camera as a “10X zoom camera” is confusing – 10X digital zoom can be done with any camera using simple PC software.
When buying a camera always make sure that you know what the optical zoom figure is and that it meets your needs. Ignore the digital zoom figure as it does not mean much and can not compensate for a camera with poor optical zoom.

Digital Noise - What Is It? What Causes It? And How Can I Get Rid Of It?

Digital noise in photos taken with digital cameras is random pixels scattered all over the photo. It is a similar effect as “grain” in film photography and it degrades the photo quality.
Digital noise usually occurs when you take low light photos (such as night photos or indoor dark scenes) or you use very slow shutter speeds or very high sensitivity modes.
When taking pictures with a digital camera an electronic sensor (also known as a CCD) built from many tiny pixels is used to measure the light for each pixel. The result is a matrix of pixels that represent the photo.
As with any other electronic sensor the CCD is not perfect and includes some noise (also know as white noise to hint on its randomness attribute). In most lighting the light is significantly stronger than the noise. However in extreme scenes where the light is very low or when a high amplification is needed noise levels can become significant and result in pixels in the photos that include more noise data than real photo light data. Those pixels usually appear as random dots or stains on the photo (for example white dots scattered randomly on the photo).
Understanding digital noise in various scenes:
low light (night photos or dark scenes): when the scene is dark the amount of light measured by each pixel of the CCD is low. When the light intensity is very low it can become too close to the level of noise naturally found in the CCD. In such cases some pixels can appear as noise because the noise level measured for them is significantly close or higher than the actual light intensity.
slow shutter speeds: when the shutter is kept open for a long time more noise will be introduced to the photo. A slow shutter speed translates to the CCD integrating more light per pixel. The effect can be easily understood as the CCD “accumulating” light in each pixel and measuring the total light over the shutter period of time. However at the same time the CCD is also “accumulating” noise. For that reason in slow shutter speed photos some pixels will appear as noise because for these pixels the amount of noise integrated is significantly close to or higher than the actual light measured.
high sensitivity modes: high sensitivity in digital photography is implemented by mechanisms that result in amplification. The CCD amplifies the measurements it takes. However there is no way to just amplify the actual photo light that falls on the CCD pixels instead the noise and the actual light are both amplified. The result is that the CCD becomes sensitive not only to light but also to its own noise. When too much amplification is applied some pixels will appear as noise.
While it is impossible to completely prevent digital noise there are a few options that allow you to significantly decrease it. When taking photos in low light scenarios such as night photos there are two main parameters to play with: sensitivity and shutter speed. Raising sensitivity creates more internal noise in the CCD while slowing down the shutter allows for more noise to integrate on the CCD. The amount of noise generated by both parameters is different. It is recommended that you set your camera to manual mode and play with a few different sensitivity/shutter speed pairs to find out the one that generates the least noise.
Some cameras include a built-in feature called “noise reduction”. Noise reduction is implemented by sophisticated software that can identify the noise pixels and remove them. For example the software can identify the noise pixels based on their randomness and usually extreme intensity gap between them and their neighboring pixels. Removing the noise can be implemented by interpolating a replacement pixel value based on its neighboring pixels.
If you do not have a built-in noise reduction feature or it does not work properly you can use a PC based software that removes digital noise. Many photo processing software include a combination of automatic and manual digital noise removal. Some software packages can also use a few photos of the same object to “average” them and thus remove the noise (relying on the fact that digital noise is random and the noise pixels will be different in each photo taken).
To conclude digital noise should be understood by any amateur or professional photographer. However for most photographers digital noise is not a practical problem even in low light scenarios usually digital noise is minimal and can be significantly reduced by simply turning on your camera’s noise reduction feature. For professional photographers who shoot in more extreme conditions digital noise can present a real problem and can be dealt with using a combination of optimizing the camera settings and removing noise with professional software.

Understanding Red-Eye in photos and how it can be prevented

Why are eyes red in photos?
Red-eye is a phenomenon that happens only when taking photos using a flash. When taking photos in day light or when in high ambient light scenarios people’s eyes look normal. When taking pictures in low ambient light scenarios using a flash the result many times is redness in the people’s eyes.
The reason for the color red is simple – when flash light from the camera hits the eyes it penetrates and is reflected back from the retina. The color of the reflected light is red because the light is actually reflected from the red blood in the retina.
In some scenarios the red-eye is evident while in others it is mild or doesn’t seem to appear at all. One of the main factors for that is the state of the pupils. If the pupils are dilated (for example the pupils dilate in darkness or when drinking alcohol) more light is reflected back from the retina and the eyes in the photo appear redder.
Common way to reduce red-eye
The most commonly used method to reduce red-eye is activating the camera’s built-in red-eye reduction feature. The red-eye reduction feature is very simple yet effective. When turned on the camera shoots a series of pre-flash strobes followed by one more strobe when actually taking the photo. The pre-flash strobes cause the pupils to reduce in size and by the time the photo is taken the pupils are small enough for the eye redness to substantially reduce.
The red-eye reduction feature does what it is supposed to do: reduce the red-eye effect but almost never is it completely prevented. There are many limitations to this feature for example pupils reaction time to light can vary. In addition this feature can have a side-effect that results in photos having people’s eyes closed. The reason is that the pre-flash strobes blind the people and cause them to close their eyes.
Other ways to prevent red-eye
Understanding what causes red-eye helps being more creative in preventing it. Following are some ways to prevent red-eye other than using the built-in camera red-eye reduction feature:
Increasing the light where photos are taken (for example by turning on the lights in a room before taking photos of people) causes people’s pupils to reduce in size and eye redness to reduce.
Point the flash away from the eyes. Since red-eye is caused by flash light reflected from the retina the best way to prevent red-eye would be to eliminate such reflection as much as possible. In most cameras the angle between the flash and the lenses is narrow (this is especially true for built-in flash and pocket cameras) causing most of the flash to bounce back from the retina to the lenses. Increasing the angle (for example by using an external flash) reduces the reflected light. You can also use a bounce flash – by having the flash light bounce off a bright surface (a white wall or a professional reflector) most of the direct reflection from the retina can be eliminated.
Red-eye can also be removed after photos were already taken by using photo processing software on your PC. Most digital cameras include a CD with PC software that embeds this feature. Although this method doesn’t eliminate the red-eye from the source it can result in a practically red-eye free photo. Some software are better than others some are manual while others automatically identify the red-eyes and process that area to revert to normal eye colors.

Still digital camera image stabilizers - keep your images sharp

Taking stable and sharp photos is hard in some situations. For example when taking a photo using high zoom lenses even the tiniest camera movement will result in a blurry photo. The reason for that blurriness is that while the shutter is open and the photo is being captured the camera moves and the image on the sensor also moves losing its sharpness. Image stabilizers help in solving the problem, here is how.
The best solution for camera movements is of course to eliminate the movements. Sometimes this can be accomplished by using a tripod or placing the camera on a stable surface when taking the photo. However in many situation it is impossible to completely stabilize the camera – for example when taking photos of fast objects in high zoom.
When movement elimination is not possible other solutions can be used that instead of preventing the movement compensate for it and prevent its symptom: blurry photos. Such solutions are also known as Image Stabilizers.
There are many different implementations of image stabilizers and many manufacturers keep their implementation details secret to prevent competitors from copying it. An image stabilizer implementation can be divided to two: detecting the movement and compensating for it. Detection is the mechanism that detects that the camera moved while shooting a photo. Compensation is the mechanism that for detected movements compensates to prevent the movement symptoms.
There are two common ways to implement image stabilizers (sometimes known as mechanical image stabilizers for the implementation mechanical feature): a floating lens element or a moving sensor.
Floating lens element: An element is added in the lenses usually in the form of a compensating lens. This element is “floating” in the lenses and can move left, right, up and down. Gyroscopes are placed in the lenses – or micro gyroscopes or equivalent sensors. When the camera moves the gyroscopes detect the movement and send a signal to the floating lens to move in the right direction in order to compensate for the movement. Moving the lens corrects the angle in which the light hits the image sensor compensating for the movement.
Moving sensor: The sensor is a chip behind the lenses that converts the light reflected on it to digital pixels. When a movement is detected the sensor is slightly moved in the opposite direction to compensate for it. Gyroscopes or equivalent sensors could be used to detect movements though many stabilizers use a DSP processor that analyzes the image on the sensor in real time to detect movements eliminating the need of another mechanical part
The advantages of such stabilizers are: getting sharper photos while practically eliminating blurriness in most common scenarios. Sensor based detectors work very well in low light scenarios since they detect actual physical movement while DSP processors based detection is less effective in low light scenarios and more prone to errors. The disadvantages are: added cost, weight and size to the camera as a result of the mechanical mechanism.

The advantages of digital photos and digital cameras

There is no debate that digital cameras are going to take over the photography market and with time we will see less and less film cameras sold and used. It is beneficial to take a moment and try to list the advantages of digital cameras and digital photos and put some order in why everybody likes them so much. In this article you will find that list.
Digital photos and digital cameras have many advantages and allow many new usages that were not possible with film. Here are a few:
Low photo cost: Photos taken with a digital camera literally cost nothing. The photos are kept in erasable memory and thus can always be discarded at no cost. Viewing the photos is immediate and does not cost anything (there is no film development cost). Also the photos you would like to keep can be copied to digital media such as a computer’s hard disk. With storage prices going down the cost of saving a photo on disk is practically zero.
The capacity: With ever growing storage capacities digital cameras today can hold hundreds and sometimes thousands of photos on a single media. You can always have a few more in your pocket and changing is very fast. The result is that a digital camera has practically infinite capacity. You can shoot as many photos as you want and at the end of the day just dump them on your computer’s disk. There is no time lost changing film and there is no photo opportunities lost due to lack of film or reserving film for later.
The feedback: One of the great advantages of digital cameras is instant feedback. Almost all digital cameras include a small LCD screen. Once a photo is shot you can go back and watch it on that screen. The ability to see how the photo looks like results in better photos. If the photo is not good you can take another one. Being able to see the photos on the spot results in an educated decision how to fix a photo or how to compose it better. It takes a lot of the guessing away from photography.
New shooting angles: With digital cameras you can take photos without your eye glued to the viewfinder. Overhead shots where you raise the camera over your head are much easier since you can still see what the camera is shooting by just looking up at its LCD screen. You are not limited anymore to angles where you can look through the viewfinder – you can shoot from any angle that the LCD is visible from. You can always shoot blindly like photographers used to do with film cameras.
Correcting photos: With digital cameras photos can be corrected using photo editing software. Some correction abilities are built-in the cameras but many more are available as software packages for your PC. Such corrections include red eye removal, contrast enhancements and more.
Changing conditions: With digital cameras the settings of the sensor can be changed instantly for each photo taken. With a click of a button the camera can be put in an indoor or outdoor mode, low light, night photography etc. Some cameras will automatically sense the scenario and set the sensor mode accordingly. This is literally like changing a roll of film to the optimized one for every photo you shoot – the best ISO, color features and more.
Longevity: Digital photos never lose their quality. A digital photo will be identical today and in 500 years. As long as you refresh the digital media every now and then and back it up your photos will literally last forever with no quality degradation. Digital photos do not turn yellow, they do not fold or get torn.

Photography Tip: Adjust the Background to Highlight Your Subject

Many times the emphasis you want to place on the subject of your photo can be improved by first focusing your attention on the background. Objects, colors and other elements in the background can often diminish from what would otherwise be a great photograph.

When you are composing your image through your camera's viewfinder or LCD monitor, take a moment to focus on what is appearing behind and around the main subject. Our minds filter out elements that we're not concentrating on, so it is quite easy to overlook telephone poles or other vertical elements that seem to 'grow out of the head' of your subject. Other people or objects in the background may also seem to be attached to your subject because of their alignment. Colorful signs, bright colors, and other unusual objects in the background can vie for your viewer's attention.

If you notice that the background is affecting your photograph in a detracting way, the easiest solution may be to simply change position. A slightly different angle or perspective can make a huge difference in the final shot. If changing your lateral position is difficult, try adjusting your vertical position. A high-angle or low-angle shot may be the ticket to eliminating background clutter, and the unique angle could potentially give you a more interesting photo as a bonus. The zoom feature of many cameras can also be used to crop the edges of the photo; simply zoom in and out until extraneous objects are cut out and the ideal composition is found.

While a simple, plain background will help your subject stand out without much effort, patterned or colorful background elements do not necessarily have to be avoided. By adjusting the aperture and shutter speed of your camera manually, the focal length of the photo can be shortened so that your subject remains in crystal clear focus while the entire background is transformed into a blend of abstract colors and distracting objects are blurred past recognition.

Digital photography offers the added benefit of being able to improve your photograph after the fact. Photo editing software (such as Adobe Photoshop or Corel PhotoPaint) allows you to modify your images in ways only limited by your imagination. With a problem background, for example, the entire background of the photo can be blurred, softened, lightened or darkened until the subject stands out. Clutter or detracting objects can literally be removed from the photograph entirely. Expert software users can cut the subject from the photo in order to place it in a more suitable position. If all else fails, you can 'cut' the subject from the original photo and 'paste' it into a completely different background... just be sure to blend the edges into the new background, and make doubly sure that the coloring and shadows are compatible.

Five Tips for Steady Cameras

Few things are as difficult to watch or as nauseating to experience as shaky camera work. Home videos of vacations and family events are notorious for this and that is why they get taped but never watched. The difference between steady and shaky footage has nothing to do with the camcorder and everything to do with the videographer. The following list of five essential skills will improve any video if applied during the shoot.

One: Hold the Camera with Both Hands

Some people think it is cool to operate cameras with just one hand. I believe the manufacturers are doing you a favor by freeing up a hand not so you can use it to eat a candy bar, but so you can use it to steady the camera. Two hands are always better than one. It sounds obvious and simple yet every time I go to record a public event I always see folks holding the camcorder with just one hand. Stop acting like an amateur and hold the camera with both hands. Your audience will thank you, maybe not verbally, but will appreciate your effort.

Two: The Correct Stance

People are lazy, especially during long shoots. If you have the job as videographer you had better not be leaning your weight on just one leg. Stand with your feet approximately shoulder length apart with your body weight balanced between both legs. This stance is proven to improve stability in all physical activity and it definitely applies in this case as well.

Three: Electronic Stabilization

Once again, the manufacturers are trying to help you out. If you are shooting without the use of a tripod then turn the electronic stabilizer on, but be sure to turn it off when you put the camera back on the tripod. This technology has improved greatly in the last few years and makes a huge difference in the final shot.

Four: Avoid Zooming, Get Closer

The wide angle is doubtlessly the most stable setting. Zooming make the camera much more reactive to the slightest movement. While holding the camera in your hands this includes up and down as well as side to side. Many zooms are digital now and I frown upon its use. Only use optical zoom! Digital zoom only enlarges existing shots which start to pixelate and the quality plunges. If you can get closer without zooming, this will keep the angle wide and will stabilize your shot.

Five: Just Use a Tripod

The professional’s best friend is the tripod. There is no shame in using one. Tricky movements should be attempted with a counterbalance system like a Glidecam. Most shooting, however, can be accomplished with the use of a tripod. Use it. It may be a little bulky to carry around but that is the difference between the amateur and the professional. Don’t be lazy. Take a tripod and use it as much as possible.

Action Photography

Of all the kinds and styles of photography being practiced today, sports photography is probably the most exciting—not to mention the most difficult—of all. Since this kind of photography involves so much speed and action, photographing the subjects or players would require more than the usual knack for good angles but also the strength to endure physical limitations during the shoot.

Sports photography usually include shots that are taken during the game or while the subjects are in their respective field. Aiming to “freeze” moments during the actual event, sports photographers should be equipped with the right photography equipment, trained with enduring tenacity, and fueled with an overwhelming desire to capture each moment and emotion at their best.

PHOTOGRAPHING DIFFERENT KINDS OF SPORTS

The best thing about sports photography is that the photographer can freeze a single moment that contains pure and raw emotion and share it with the public in print. If you’re into photography and quite interested in taking adrenaline-pumping shots, you should familiarize yourself with different kinds of sports first. Since each sport varies, the styles and techniques used in capturing and freezing each moment also vary.

If you are already in the field taking photos, it is a must that you have a brief background about the sport you are covering. Knowledge in the fundamentals of coaching style, sport rules, and players will help you identify their most interesting angles. It is also a must to identify your “safety” (a shot that is easy to shoot and can be published if you don’t get good photos all throughout).

Here are some basic sports photography guidelines fit for common sports:

1. Baseball. Most seasoned sports photographers would agree that baseball is one sport that is hardest to shoot because of its unpredictability. Make sure that you get your safety first before getting experimental shots.

2. Basketball. Unlike baseball, this is the easiest sport to shoot because you only have to focus on two subjects: the player who handles the ball and the net. But its simplicity limits you to different angles, so make sure you get plenty of shots to choose from.

3. Football. This is another easy sport to shoot but it is considered as the most equipment intense sports because it would require waiting for the perfect shot. Although it’s easy to get safeties, it’s still up to you to produce action shots that would be a stand up.

4. Soccer and Hockey. Because of the speed and sudden movements involved in these sports, auto focus cameras are recommended.

5. Volleyball. Although it is one of the rarely covered sports events, volleyball is also one of favorites because dramatic shots can be derived all throughout. Since moves in the sports are quite tricky, make sure that you turn your camera’s auto focus on.

6. Golf. It’s hard to shoot photos during the game due to the nature of the game itself. What you can do is to camp at one location and take shots as players pass by or use a cart to follow the individual players.

7. Track and Field. Though access can be limited, this is one sport that is fun to shoot because movements are predictable and easy to shoot. All you need is good timing.

8. Gymnastics and Figure Skating. One basic rule in these sports: NO FLASH. Since they involve individuals performing, the use of flash is restricted because it distracts the players. The major problem you’ll encounter is lighting but this can be solved once the venue is lit up.

9. Motorsports and Racing Events. These are fairly easy to photograph because you can get away with slower lenses. But since you’re far from the track, you need longer lenses for the shoot.

Compressed digital photo file formats – storing digital photos

Digital photos are stored as files on memory cards and computer hard disks. They can be stored in different file formats (each format has a unique file extension). Most of the formats are compressed to save space and each has its own pros and cons.
The need for standard file formats
Digital photos are saved as digital files on electronic media. These digital photo files are a collection of bytes. If each manufacturer and camera would have used a proprietary file format then you would have needed proprietary software that could read, print and display those formats. Using a standard format allows any camera to save photos while any other software can read, display and print them.
What is compression and why it is needed
A digital photo is a collection of pixels – each pixel is stored as a value that represents its color and intensity. Usually each pixel is represented by an RGB value (three numbers one byte each with values 0 to 255 representing the intensity of Red, Green and Blue that combined together create the pixel’s color). An RGB value occupies 3 bytes. So how big is a digital photo file? It depends on the number of pixels in the photo. For example if you shoot a photo using an 8 mega pixels digital camera the photo will have 8000000 pixels each one occupying 3 bytes. The total file size would be 8000000*3=24000000 or 24Mbytes. This is a very big file. Big files are harder to manipulate they take a long time to send by email, they occupy large storage space and they take longer to load.
In any digital photo there is data that is either redundant or that if removed the viewer would not be able to notice the difference. In addition representing pixels as RGB values is not efficient in terms of storage space. The process of compression takes advantage of these facts. When you compress a digital photo the compression software represents pixels in a more efficient way, removes redundant data and removes data that is “not important”. The result is a significantly smaller file. For example the above 24Mbytes file could easily be compressed to about 3Mbytes with hardly any noticeable quality degradation.
Before compressed digital photo files can be viewed or printed they need to be decompressed. Decompression is the reverse process of compression - a compressed file is converted to its original format – usually a simple RGB pixel file. Using standard compression file formats allows one software to compress a digital photo file and another software to decompress it and process it.
Lossy or Lossless compression?
There are two main types of compression software: lossy and lossless. Here are the differences:

Lossless compression: Lossless compression means that if you take a file compress it and then decompress it – the decompressed file would be the exact copy of the original file. With lossless compression no data is lost in the compression process – the compression software uses better representation of the data in the file but it does not remove any data from it.

Lossy compression: Lossy compression means that if you take a file, compress it and then decompress it – the decompressed file would be slightly different than the original one. The compression software not only represents the file’s data more efficiently but it also removes data that it considers minor or not important. Such data can be removed without hardly any noticeable degradation in the file quality. The differences between the original file and the decompressed file are minor and should be negligible to the user.
Lossless compression is usually applied to text and other data where all data is equally important. For example when compressing the text in this article and later on decompressing it you would want to get the exact original article without any words or sentences dropped by the compression software that decided they were not important.
Lossy compression is usually applied to digital photos and graphic files. Such files include data that the viewer would not be able to notice if removed. For example small changes to color in a photo might not be noticeable. The decompressed file is not exactly the same as the original one but when viewing both the original and decompressed photos side by side the viewer can not tell the difference. Lossy compression software can be set to different compression levels based on how much data is allowed to be lost. At some point losing too much data is noticeable and degrades the digital photo quality. Many digital cameras allow you to set the level of compression from low to high where high compression means smaller files but less quality and low compression means bigger files but no noticeable quality degradation.
Common digital photo file formats
You can know what a digital photo file format is by checking its extension. Usually the extension is three letters representing a specific format. Here is a list of the common extensions and formats:
BMP – Windows Bitmap: this is a basic raw format. The photo is stored as a pixel raster and is not compressed. While this format is very easy to use and is supported by practically all software it is not efficient as there is no compression applied.
GIF – Graphics Interchange Format: An old file format initiated by CompuServe. It uses a lossless LZW compression and is thus more efficient than BMP files. GIF files are very efficient for storing basic graphics (that include lines, circles and other graphical shapes) and also efficient for storing small digital photos but are rarely used to store large digital photos as there are more efficient formats for that purpose. GIF files can also include multiple “frames” and support basic animation.
PNG – Portable Network Graphics: This relatively new format was designed to be used in online applications such as web pages. It uses a lossless compression. The original goal of the PNG format was to replace GIF (due to some licensing complications associated with the GIF format). PNG is commonly used now by online web sites to represent small digital photos or graphics replacing the GIF format.
JPEG – Joint Photographic Experts Group: Also known as JPG this file format was designed by a special industry group and became an ISO standard. The design goal of the format was the efficient storage of digital photographic files. Although JPG files can support lossless compression they are almost always used in lossy compression mode. JPG files are very efficient in compressing digital photos. The JPG compression software can be set to different compression levels – with higher compression levels the photo files can get very small but they can also get distorted. JPG files are the most common ones used by digital cameras to store compressed digital photos on memory cards and computer hard disks as they result in small file sizes and hardly any noticeable photo quality degradation.

What is a digital photo JPEG file?

Digital photos are stored as files on memory cards and computer hard disks. They can be stored in different file formats (each format has a unique file extension). Digital photo files can be compressed to save storage space and can use a standard or a proprietary format.
Digital photos are saved as digital files on electronic media. These digital photo files are a collection of bytes. JPEG is a standard file format for storing such digital photos. The JPEG format supports compression and allows very efficient high quality storage of digital photos. When using the JPEG format any software from different vendors that adheres to the standard can create and process JPEG files.
JPEG – Joint Photographic Experts Group
The JPEG file format was designed by a special industry group for the purpose of storing and compressing high quality digital photos. Later on JPEG became an ISO standard and it is probably one of the most popular formats for storing digital photos today. JPEG files are also known simple as JPG files (named after their common file extension .JPG).
The design goal of the group was the efficient storage of digital photographic files while maintaining their original high quality (or quality which is as close as possible to the original one). JPEG files can support lossless compression but since lossless compression is inefficient when compressing digital photos it is hardly used. In most cases JPEG files use lossy compression to efficiently represent digital photos.
It is easy to understand the motivation for such efficient compression by using an example: Digital photos files are built of pixels each one has a value representing its color and intensity. Each pixel occupies 3 bytes (one for Red, one for Green and one for Blue - representing the color and intensity of the pixel). If you shoot a photo using an 8 mega pixels digital camera the photo will have 8000000 pixels each one occupying 3 bytes. The total file size would be 8000000*3=24000000 or 24Mbytes. This is a very big file. Big files are hard to manipulate they take a long time to send by email, they occupy large storage space and they take longer to load. If that same file was compressed into a JPEG digital photo file its size would reduce to about 3Mbytes – a much more manageable file size.
JPEG files are extremely efficient in compressing digital photos. They are using compression methods that were specifically designed for digital photos and take advantage of digital photos attributes that allow a more efficient representation of pixels. The JPEG format standardized the way a digital photo is represented and suggested ways to compress digital photos. Using this standard software from one vendor can compress and create a JPEG digital photo file while software from a different vendor can read and process it. There are many different compressors implementations that differ in the quality of the compressed photo. Also – the digital photo compressor can be set to different levels of compression. When using a very aggressive compression setting the digital photo file can be very small – the side effect however is degradation in quality – most noticeable is the appearance of large square areas with the same color and pattern.
JPEG files are the most commonly used ones by digital cameras to store compressed digital photos on memory cards and computer hard disks as they result in small file sizes and hardly any noticeable photo quality degradation. Most cameras also let the user set the level of compression applied to the digital photos – usually three level are provided: low, medium and high – where low results in minimal file size reduction but superior quality and high results in the smallest files but the highest degradation in quality - in most cases however that degradation is hardly noticeable by the amateur photographer.

Digital photo pixel color formats RGB CMYK and HSV

Digital photos are built of pixels. When you look at a digital photo on a computer screen or on a printed version of the photo you are really looking at millions of pixels each with a unique color and intensity. When put together all these pixels form the photo that you see. There are a few formats used to represent a pixel color – here are the common ones.
You have probably heard at least one of the following acronyms: RGB, CMYK and HSV. RGB is the most popular one with CMYK not lagging far behind. Each format is a different way to describe a pixel color. The same pixel can be represented in each of the three formats. Each format is commonly used in some applications.
Here is a description of each of these formats and their usage:
RGB – Red Green Blue: In RGB format each pixel color is represented as an addition of three primary colors: red, green and blue. Any color can be reproduced by mixing these three components in different ratios. RGB is most commonly used to represent colors that are displayed on compute screens. The reason is that RGB is an active format or in other words it describes colors as an addition of red green and blue light emitted from a light source such as a compute screen. A compute screen emits red blue and green light for each pixel in order to create the pixel color.
CMYK – Cyan Magenta Yellow Key: The CMYK format is used for representing pixels color on printed paper. The fourth component, key, is also know as the black component. Different colors are created when mixing the first three components CMY. Pure black however is hard to achieve with such mixing and for that reason black has a value of its own. The CMYK format is also aligned with how most color printers are implemented – they have one black cartridge and three color cartridges for cyan, magenta and yellow. The reason printers are implemented this way is that pure real black color is hard to reproduce by mixing three other colors. Opposite to RGB which works by mixing light emitted by a light source CMYK works by mixing the light not absorbed by ink on paper. CMYK is thus also known as passive while RGB is known as active. HSV – Hue Saturation Value: The HSV format is used by many photo editing software and by most semi-professional and professional graphic designers and artists. The HSV format is more aligned with the way we see and describe colors. Hue defines the color – for example green, yellow, purple etc. Saturation defines how pure the color is– it varies from dark or faded color to the pure color for example a green hue can be 100% saturated – or a pure green or it can be 0% saturated or practically black. Value is the intensity or brightness of the color. A value can be 0% which means the color is not bright at all or is practically black or 100% which means the color is as illuminated and bright as it can possibly be. This format follows how we see and describe colors and for that reason it is used by photo editing software. When we see color we first describe what color we see (e.g. green) then we add how saturated it is (e.g. faded green) and then we add how bright or illuminated it is (e.g. bright faded green).

What Digital-SLR-Photography Is All About

The cameras of the past did not have that much clarity or depth. Even with the development of the lens which allows the user to focus in on images, this did not yet make photographers completely satisfied after a take.

Fortunately, the digital age has brought about the creation of the SLR camera. This single reflex unit allows the user to produce quality images from pressing the button till it comes out when it has been developed.

The SLR is quite expensive. One unit costs about $5,000 and upgrading the lens to reach farther will be another expense. This is probably why many advise to have this insured in case this gets lost or damaged.

Here are some of the known brands of SLR camera’s worth checking out in the market.

1. The first is the Nikon D2x digicam. Though its features are almost the same like others in the market, it comes with a GPS recorder so that the person can remember when and where it was taken so this can be done again.

The pictures can be downloaded to a laptop so the pictures can be printed or developed in the store.

2. Another great SLR camera is the Canon EOS-1DS Mark 2 Digicam. This model enables the person to shoot in any environment. This has better shots per second than the first one mentioned which is great for shooting moving objects.

3. The Kodak DCS Pro is another camera worth checking out. This lightweight model can use Nikon accessories and lenses to be able to get those shots that other units cant.

These units are just one of many that are available in the market. The price of each are not that far apart so it will really depend on how comfortable the user is. Some hobbyists have used one brand for a number of years and decided to stick to it.

In order to keep these in good condition, the owner must also know how to properly store or clean these items. The cover must always be placed on the lens when not in use and should be wiped after each use.

Some people who are not happy with the cover can use a filter which is better protection from dirt, fingerprints or crashes.

A lot of stores usually sell the SLR camera with a bag but others usually buy a bigger one to hold other equipment and accessories.

The digital SLR camera is one innovation that is here to say. Though it may hurt the pocket in getting one, the shots taken will be rewarding.

Outdoor Photography

If you are interested in beginning an interesting and exciting hobby while taking advantage of the outdoor opportunities of your city, it is time to consider buying a camera and photograph nature, people, sights, sports , landmarks, the sky, the sun and the landscape. The possibilities are endless and your intuition can lead you anywhere you believe you are going to take your next amazing photograph.

Being an amateur photographer, less than a year ago I decided to invest in buying a digital camera and a couple of extra lenses. Since then, I have taken more than 2,000 pictures of places and people trying to focus on what I wanted to portray and tell a story through the selected imagery. Although my photographic illustrations have not always been really great, I am extremely happy I decided to take this hobby as I have been walking the city streets since then looking with a different eye the things I have been crossing indifferently in the past.

Outdoor photography has evolved since the creation of the first photographic camera to an activity anyone can do as it offers tremendous possibilities and gives people the initiative to explore the unknown or known world with the eyes of a conscious observer.

During the summer, I usually go out looking for interesting spots to shoot my photographs and every digital album I create has a summer theme. The same I plan to do during the fall and winter times and in a year from now, who known, perhaps I will be able to show my photographic collection to friends, family and strangers in my first personal expedition.

Consider taking photography as a hobby as you can enjoy the fulfilment you will feel every time you press your camera's button. Moreover, your kids, friends or partner can act as the models of your frames and you will always save in your memory the times you will spend watching your children laugh while playing. Through the look of your camera you will become more conscious of your surroundings and you will remember how it feels to look at a tree or the sky and be content that you are alive and able to admire nature's miracles or humans' amazing constructions.

Auto and manual focus modes in digital cameras

One of the important phases of shooting a good photo is focusing on the photo’s objects. Photos that are out of focus look bad and blurry. Sometimes shooting out of focus objects is done on purpose as an artistic effect but in most cases a sharp focused object is the photographer goal.
Most low-end pocket digital cameras do all the focus work for you. These are literally “point and shoot” cameras. Furthermore even if you wanted to manually focus using such cameras it would have been practically impossible since they do not include a real optical viewfinder. Using the LCD to check for focus is useless as the LCD is not good enough to truly let you know if an object is perfectly focused or not.
Digital SLR cameras on the other hand have an optical viewfinder that allows you to truly see the photo through the camera’s lens. With digital SLR cameras you can see how well the objects in the photo are focused and correct the focus as needed.
Digital cameras support at least three focus modes:

Manual focus: In this mode the camera does not automatically focus on the objects in the photo. You will have to manually set the focus as desired. This is accomplished by either pushing some buttons that in turn change the focus or more commonly by rotating a focus ring on the lens clockwise or counterclockwise as needed. You can see the results of changing the focus by looking through the viewfinder. When you are happy with the focus you can press the shutter button to take the photo.

Single auto focus: In this mode the camera automatically focuses on the objects in the photo. The camera automatically focuses when you press the shutter button either all the way down to shoot a photo or half way down to lock the focus. In this mode the automatic focus process is carried out only once as soon as the shutter button is pressed. Once the focus is achieved it is locked and it is not changed until the next time the shutter button is pressed. If you keep the shutter button pressed half way down and then the camera moves or the object moves the focus might be lost. This mode is useful when shooting static objects. In most cases you will press the shutter button and hold it half way down. The camera will run the auto focus process. It will let you know when focus is achieved by displaying a green icon and by playing a short beep.

Continuous auto focus: In this mode the camera continuously focuses on the objects in the photo. Once the shutter button is pressed and as long as it is held half way down the camera continuously focuses on the objects in the photo. In this mode the camera continuously corrects the focus as the objects distance from the camera changes. This mode is useful when you shoot photos of moving objects such as a race car during a race or airplanes during an air show. You can hold the shutter button half way down and continuously move the camera to follow the object. The camera will continuously keep the object in focus. When you are ready to shoot the photo simply press the shutter button all the way down. One drawback of this mode is high power consumption as the camera continuously corrects the focus it uses the power hungry motors in the lens in order to move the optical components.
Like any other feature automatic and manual focus modes have their pros and cons. The first step to using them to your advantage is to understand how they work and what they were designed for. The next step is to experiment shoot photos using different focus modes and different types of objects and see how the camera behaves. Once you have done that you will be ready to instinctively use the best focus mode for each photo situation.

How Does Sensor Size Affect Your Digital Photography

Digital sensor is an important matter of consideration for a digital camera owner. The quality of the photography depends on the size of the sensor. The larger the sensor the better will be the quality of the photograph. This fact plays a vital role in choosing the perfect digital camera.

The size of the sensor affects digital photography

The final image is an outcome of the various pixels that are arranged by the sensor of the camera. Soon after clicking on the shutter button, the pixels start to accumulate the photons in a cavity. After completion of exposure, camera confines those pixels and find out the number of photons that are attached to each other. Now these photons are compiled in accordance with the levels of intensity. But all these can only give you a colorless image. There are some filters on the cavities that release the specific color of light into those cavities. All the contemporary digital cameras are unable to capture all the three primary colors. Only one of the three primary colors gets into each cavity. Thus the camera needs to estimate the remaining two colors to get the adequate information about all the three colors at every pixel.

Bayer array is one of the commonest color filters used in digital cameras and passes on all the information about different primary colors to each pixel. Higher or lower resolution of photograph depends on the array.

In a very precise meaning a sensor is a silicon semiconductor meant for acquiring photons and converting them into electron. The size of the sensor is, perhaps, the second most important thing just after the quantity of mega pixels. Though the size of the sensor has a huge range, generally it is of two basic categories. The sensor of DSLRs comes under the range of 24x16mm to 36x24mm, but it remains of the range of 8x6mm in the case of a consumer camera. The size of the sensor affects the performance of the camera and decides the intensity of sensor produced noise. Noise, actually, worsen the images of digital camera. If the sensor is smaller than actual requirement, then the camera is unable to capture the full view of the image. Fisheye lens can actually compensate this to some extent. But one, who really does not want to compromise with the quality of the image, should only go for the camera having adequate size of sensor. In case the sensor is small, centre of the lens captures the image. Since maximum portion of the image passes through the centre of the lens, quality of the lens becomes very important factor to consider. The quantity of light that reaches into the pixel is very less. Therefore useful image is only available after proper enlargement of the same.

There is a relation between sensor and crop factor. In this case, because of limited size, while using 35mm lens, the sensor crop out the inferior quality portion of the image. This is simply because the fact that the image passes through the centre of the lens in case of smaller sensor and the image remains sharpest at that position. The use of lens becomes a meaningless practice if the sensor of the camera is undersized. But a 2/3 or even ¾ size can give optimum output if it is used with a 35mm lens.

In upshot, it can be concluded that finding out a pixel pitch of a given sensor, while buying a digital camera can be tricky. However, one can seek the help of certain review sites that provide the information about recent models including their sensors.

Advantages And Disadvantages Of Digital Photography

1. Lesser cost

One of the advantages that digital cameras provide is the fact that it is largely practical and convenient. There is lesser cost in the long run as one need not buy films anymore and will need not develop the pictures the old fashion way. They would only need to charge the batteries, get a reasonably large memory stick and they are good to go.

2. Better storage

Photographers can now store the pictures that they have taken in their computers and in their cds, allowing them to use the memory stick over and over again. There is no more need to store rolls of film and worry that they might disintegrate.

3. Printing convenience

Another convenience that digital cameras provide is the fact that it can be printed at home the same way one would print any kind of file.

4. Trial and Error

Another convenience that digital cameras provide is the fact that one can actually view the photos right after taking it and have the option of erasing it when it is not good. This, according to experts, spoils photographers. Because they can do a take over and over again, they don’t learn the discipline of planning for their shot before actually pressing the button.
Still, for the amateur photographer, this is like manna in heaven as this enables them to easily take good photographs and see their mistakes.

Disadvantages

1. Need for Computer literacy

Similar to film photography where you need to be also familiar with working in the dark room, one needs to have a modicum of computer skills. Not only will you be storing your photographs in the computer, operating the camera is like operating a small computer. You really have to be computer literate in order to maximize the functions of your camera.

2. Artistry is lost

There are some that argue that artistry and spontaneity is lost when using a digital camera because photographers do not shoot using various effects. For instance, some would not bother to blur the background anymore because they can fix the photo in Photoshop and other graphic programs. One can do a number of things with the computer, erase flaws, fix red eyes and sharpen some features.

Continuous focus mode used for shooting digital photos of moving objects

It is harder to shoot good digital photos of moving objects than of still objects. When objects are still you have all the time that you need to focus on the object and set the other camera parameters like shutter speed and aperture. This time shortens as the objects in the frame move faster and faster.
An example of moving objects that you might be photographing is a runner in a race, a racecar in a racing event or a jet fighter in an air show. The closer you are to those moving objects the faster they appear to be moving relative to your position and the faster they move the less time you have to set the camera and shoot the digital photo. For example if you are really far from a racecar during a race you have more time to take the photo than if you are virtually on the track and the car is heading your way.
There are many aspects to shooting good moving objects photos. In this article we will only look at one: focusing on the object. Other parameters such as shutter speed and aperture are explained in other articles. When objects are in focus digital photos look sharp and crisp when objects are out of focus they look unclear and blurry.
With low-end pocket cameras you do not have much choice when it comes to focusing. The camera will make its best effort to focus on the objects and there is little control for you as the photographer to guarantee the results. Semi-professional photographer are more likely to use SLR digital cameras with zoon lenses when taking photos of moving objects in scenarios like those described above. When using such equipment you can take advantage of a focusing mode known as Continuous Focus.
In Continuous Focus mode the camera continuously focuses on the objects in the photo. Once the shutter button is pressed and as long as it is held half way down the camera continuously focuses on the objects in the photo. The camera continuously corrects the focus as the objects distance from the camera changes.
When using this mode to shoot photos of moving objects you should hold the shutter button half way down and continuously move the camera to follow the objects. The camera will continuously keep the objects in focus. When you are ready to shoot the photo simply press the shutter button all the way down. By continuously correcting the focus the camera guarantees that it is always ready to shoot the photo when you feel the composition is right. For example you can use this mode to track an airplane in an air show and take the photo exactly when the composition is right – maybe when another bigger and slower airplane is visible making the digital photo composition more impressive.
This mode is not free of drawbacks. One drawback is the associated high power consumption as the camera continuously corrects the focus it uses the power hungry motors in the lens in order to move the optical components back and forth. Another drawback is the need to keep the objects in focus in a specific area of the frame that the camera focuses on limiting the composition options - usually this area is in the center of the frame.

The biggest power consumers in digital cameras

Like other portable electronic devices digital cameras rely on batteries to power up their electronics and mechanical elements. Although battery technologies have improved a lot in the last few years they are still very limited in their energy capacity.
Understanding what elements of your digital camera consume the most power can help you to understand why you run out of battery so fast and to conserve battery power in the future. In this article we will list these power hungry components. Other articles explain how you can optimize usage to preserve power.
Your digital camera is built from many components. Some of them are electronic like the chipsets that run the camera and carry out all the wonderful automatic features. Some of them are mechanical like the motors that move the lenses to achieve focus or change the zoom factor. And some of them are optical like the lenses and the mirror in SLR cameras.
Every digital camera components consumes different amounts of energy. Some components consume very little power while others consume a lot. Digital cameras include smart electronics that optimize power consumption but for the most part power consumption depends on how the photographer uses the camera and its features.
Here is a list of three components that consume the most energy in a typical digital camera:

LCD screen: One of the great features of digital cameras is the ability to view photos immediately after they are taken using a small color and bright LCD screen built into the camera. This allows photographer to review the composition and decide if the photo is good enough or if they need to take more photos. Before the digital era photographers had to wait until the film was developed in order to review their photos. The digital era shortened this wait time to virtually zero. LCD screens are also used as convenient view finders – when taking a photo you can look at the LCD and see exactly how the photo will look like. Pressing the shutter button actually shoots the photo. The problem with color and bright LCD screens is that they consume a lot of energy. This is the reasons why all digital cameras turn off the LCD screen automatically if not used for a certain amount of time.

Motors: Digital cameras include moving components. These are mostly optical elements that move in order to focus on objects or change zoom factors. Digital cameras include motors that move those elements as needed to achieve the photographer desired results. For example when auto focusing on objects in the photo frame the digital camera built in computer sends commands to the motors to move the lenses back and forth until focus is achieved. Motors are mechanical components and consume a lot of power when used. Furthermore the bigger and heavier the lens and optical elements that the motor have to move (for example big zoom lenses) the more energy is needed for the motors to complete their task.

Flash: Flash is used when shooting photos in dark conditions or in conditions where shadows can appear on the objects. Flash is an electro-optical component that works by charging energy into a special electronic component and then discharging this energy in a short time as light energy. There are many types of flash units the bigger and longer distance that a flash supports the more energy it consumes each time it is used.

How to Shoot Multiples

There are several types of in-camera multiple exposure, with numerous variations thereof:

• Two or more completely different scenes shot on one piece of film. A shot is taken, then the shutter is cocked but the film isn't advanced. Then another shot, taken somewhere else, is exposed on that same frame.

Back in the old days, when shutter cocking and film advance were separate operations, these kinds of multiples were easy (too easy, as some will attest). Most modern cameras, 35mm in particular, wind and cock the shutter in one operation (via the push of a lever or crank of a motor). So you must disengage the wind function to make multis. On some mechanical cameras, you can simply disengage the winding clutch by pushing the rewind button or lever. (Consult your manual.) On electronic cameras, however, you usually have to switch to a separate multi-exposure mode, then enter the number of exposures you want to make on a single frame.

Because each exposure adds more density to the film, you'll end up with extremely overexposed negatives or slides if you simply shoot away at the meter reading. To prevent overexposure, you must deliberately reduce each exposure. With a double image, it's easy: You just shoot the two pictures at half the normal exposure, in other words, one stop under.

But how do you figure exposure if you're shooting, say, 12 multiples? Just multiply the number of exposures times the ISO rating of your film, and reset the camera to that new rating. Example: To shoot a 12-shot multiple on 50-speed slide film, multiply 12 times 50 to get 600. Now set your camera ISO to the nearest standard rating, in this case 640, and shoot away.

• Single-subject multiples: A specialized version of the multiples described above, these are done by keeping the camera in one place (preferably on a tripod) and exposing the frame over and over again. If you shoot, say, a boat bobbing on the water, you'll get an impressionistic, blurred boat against a sharp background!

• Dark-field multiples: If you're shooting a scene with a large black or nearly black area in the frame, you can create multiple images in which individual elements don't have the semitransparent look.

A classic application of this is adding a big moon to a night landscape. A scene with a dark sky area is first shot; then, on the same piece of film, another exposure is made of the moon to add it to the sky. Unlike simple multiscene multiples, dark-field multiples don't add exposure in layers Each shot against the black back ground should be made at normal exposure.

• Flash multiples: Similar to dark-field multiples, except flash is used for the exposures. A fun shot is a double exposure of a person by a solitary tree after dark: With the camera on a tripod, one shot is made with your subject on one side of the tree; another with the subject on the other side of the tree. The two exposures of your subject look like identical twins.

You don't need multi-exposure provision to make a flash multiple - in fact, you don't even need flash synch! With a dark background, just open the shutter on B (or a long timed exposure) and fire the flash the appropriate number of times with the flash test button. Then close the shutter.

• Stroboscopic flash multiples: Some flash units (and some point-and-shoot cameras) have a setting for true Stroboscopic flash: multiple bursts in rapid succession - 10 pops a second, or even more.

Using a black background (or an open space at night), you can use strobe flash for such motion studies as analysis of a golf swing or a check of your Little Leaguer's at-bat form.

Avoid These Five Shooting Mistakes

The difference between professional and amateur video work is obvious to audiences but is not always so obvious behind the camera. With so many things to consider, it's easy to overlook something while shooting that may be irreparable later. Your audience will know if the shoot was handled well or not by how they react to the images you present. Professionals have often
learned by hard experience the consequences of failing to plan against the following five mistakes:

1. Bad framing. Nobody likes to see an actor whose head is cut off by the top of the video frame, but even fewer people like to see an actor with his chin cut off at the bottom. It's important to maintain good balance in the composition of the shot, but the somewhat experienced amateur tends to go to the other extreme by putting all the subjects smack in the center of the frame. That gets boring and the audience will see everything objectively. The professional follows the rule of thirds, keeping the subjects on the lines that divide the frame into thirds, keeping eyes on the top third and movement on the third opposite of the direction in which the subject is moving in order to keep open space in front. While this may seem simple, it is not as easy as it appears once the action begins. Practice following the rule of thirds and you will be able to keep your subjects interesting to watch.

2. Too much zooming. Most consumer grade camcorders have few effects built in but all of them have zooms so many amateurs tend to overuse it. If you pay attention to most of the stuff you see in films or television, the actual zooming is not commonly displayed. Home videos, however, are deeply infected with over zealous zooming and it weakens the production. Picture quality and audience interest remains when you track the camera in for a closer view instead of constantly zooming. The wide shot keeps the highest picture quality so try to use that whenever you can.

3. Backlighting. The amateur videographer is 99% ignorant of how light affects the appearance of the subject on the screen. So much amateur video is so fraught with black figures with dark faces by windows or in front of the sunlight. A word to the wise: keep the strongest light source in front of your actor or subject for the best video quality. Photographers have a flash so they can mix it up but video isn't served by having backgrounds that are brighter than the subject. When forced to video a backlit subject, increase the exposure to totally blow out the background. Better to have a clear face and nothing in the background than a beautiful background with a dark subject.

4. Background noise. Camcorders com with omnidirectional microphones built in but many videographers continue to shoot as if the sound from the front is the only audio that the camera will pick up. What they fail to consider is the fact that the microphone is picking up the planes overhead, the trucks on the nearby highway, the children playing nearby, and the wind. Cut out all the background noise you can before you start rolling tape because once that audio is recorded, you may not be able to clean it up in post production.

5. No tripod. Please, just use it. Get one with quick release plates so it doesn't slow you down much when you need to hold the camera but no human arm or shoulder will ever be able to compete with the steady, dependable, and strong shots that come from using a tripod. Videographers are cocky and think they can handle it with their hands. They obviously have never participated in the production of a major motion picture. The cinematographer never holds the camera himself, he's not so incompetent as to think he can get consistent quality shots with his own arm.

Avoid these mistakes and your audiences will love you for it.

Features Of A Waterproof Digital Camera

Why in the world would you need a waterproof digital camera? No, you don’t have to be a scuba diver to have this need. You could need one because you like to sail or enjoy taking pictures outdoors. Even the rain can harm some types of digital cameras. So, if you enjoy taking pictures you may want to look into options for a waterproof camera.

The options range from waterproof casings to waterproof and weather resistant digital cameras. A waterproof casing is basically a housing unit you can buy for your existing camera and use when the conditions require it. These units can be purchased for most cameras as they are manufactured by many of the larger camera companies including, Canon, Olympus and Sony. If scuba diving were your thing, you can purchase a waterproof casing that is capable of being submersed 130 feet.

If you don’t want to add the casing to your existing camera and have an ongoing need for a waterproof digital camera there are many options on the market today. Again, Canon, Olympus, Sony and Pentax all offer a waterproof camera. These cameras have all of the bells and whistles of non waterproof models from flash to movie making capabilities. It is better to purchase a package deal that includes a memory card, editing software, and USB connection.

There are many factors to consider with deciding on purchasing a waterproof casing or waterproof camera, not the least of which is price. How much you are able to spend will determine the resolution you are able to obtain. Low resolutions cameras around two megapixels are suitable for printing 5x7 photos and email while it is recommend you have at least a four megapixel camera for larger prints. Only professionals who will be doing editing really have then need for a camera over 5 megapixels.

An important characteristic to keep in mind when purchasing a waterproof camera is ease of use. Personally, I want something that I can take right out of the box, point and shoot. The more hassle and setup involved the more likely I am to say “forget it.” Some cameras also take a long time to warm up and start. If you are going to the trouble of purchasing a waterproof camera in the first place, you are likely shooting in wet conditions and will want something that starts fast. Another feature to check out is the LCD display. Make sure you can easily view this in all lighting conditions from low light to sunlight.

Now get out there and start taking some photos with your new waterproof camera.

What Are The Features Of A Mini Digital Camera?

There are many different kinds of mini digital cameras available. The world’s smallest digital camera, which has been around for a number of years now, is the Smart mini digital camera. It’s ultra-compact, multifunctional, and smaller than a credit card. But this mini digital camera takes jaw-dropping digital photos and can even double as a webcam because of its built-in personal computer camera functions.

The Smart mini digital camera comes loaded with 16MB of built-in ROM, allowing you to store up to 20 pictures. Downloading the photos to your computer is easy, simply connect it to your pc with the USB cables that come with it nd use the included software package. The software also has editing capability, allowing you to crop pictures and make any desired color adjustments.

In additon, it’s 352x288 pixel screen allows you to use it as a webcam to communicate with friends. This mini digital camera is so compact; it will even fit on your key ring. And it comes complete with its own key ring attachment and leather pouch. It also has compatibility with Microsoft operating systems from Windows 98 forwards.

The mini digital camera includes an LCD display, letting you know just how many pictures you have taken in the still photo mode, or telling you the amount of ROM available in continuous mode. The display also tells you which function is currently activated. Change the shooting mode of the camera with the touch of the button; choose between high resolution and low resolution. Do you want to be in your own photographs? The Smart mini digital camera also has an auto-shoot mode.

Casio also has two mini digital cameras, the EXZ55 and the EXTRA-S100. While they are more expensive and slightly larger than the Smart mini digital camera, they do take higher-quality photographs. The Smart mini digital camera is best used as a webcam. The EXZ55 mini digital camera is 87 millimeters wide by 58 millimeters high by 22.5 millimeters deep. Or 3.45 inches wide by 2.23 inches wide by 0.89 inches wide. This is the size of a credit card, but slightly thicker. The EX-S100 is smaller, measuring 88 millimeters wide by 57 millimeters high by 16.7 millimeters deep. Or 3.46 inches by 2.24 inches by 0.66 inches deep. The EXZ55 mini digital camera has five megapixels with a 3x optical zoom and a 2.5 inch LCD display.